Sunday, 27 January 2013

Gevulde Speculaas for Daring Bakers, January 2013 - Pan speziato ripieno (Olanda)

DSCN1510_Gevulde Speculaas

Versione in italiano a fondo pagina

Here is another interesting recipe! Gevulde Speculaas. I was really curious about it as it was totally new for me. It is an almond filled speculaas pie. Speculaas is a spicy dough used to make biscuits in the Netherlands. It is crunchy. Just like biscuits should be, with a delicious well balanced taste of almond filling inside. Not too sweet, not too spicy. Yum!

I like spices and has most in my cupboard already, except for mace (macis in Italian), which I confess I had never come across before. I discovered it is the ground  covering of the nutmeg seed. Reddish and lacy in texture, it is somewhat milder in taste compared to ground nutmeg. 

source: Wikipedia



photo by:Big Dubya - mace (macis)


photo by: HBarrison


photo by:souvikdg - mace (macis)


mace powder (macis in polvere) da qui





Torta  Gevulde Speculaas_collage_1
 Gevulde Speculaas: work in progress



Gevulde Speculaas_collage_2
almost done...done

As usual, I am pasting below what our hostess wrote for us. I think there is no better way to convey the carefully thought, precise,  instructions Francijn gave us. Thank you Francijn!

----------------- . ----------------

Hello! My name is Francijn from Koken in de Brouwerij, http://kokenindebrouwerij.blogspot.it/, and I'm proud to be a Dutch Daring Baker since April 2008. I made my first cake for my own twentieth birthday, using my very first cookbook. And since then I am a devoted baker, and my slogan is “I can make that myself”. I love to bake things that other people buy.

This month we're going to make a traditional Dutch pastry: gevulde speculaas (stuffed speculaas). It is not hard to make, it doesn't take a lot of time, but it is delicious, beautiful and very traditional. And everyone I know buys it instead of baking.

Recipe source: Dutch culture

Blog-checking lines: Francijn of Koken in de Brouwerij was our January 2013 Daring Bakers’ Hostess and she challenged us to make the traditional Dutch pastry, Gevulde Speculaas from scratch! That includes making our own spice mix, almond paste and dough! Delicious!

Posting date: January 27, 2013


Notes: You can choose to make this recipe in one day. But to enjoy the full flavor you could take a few days. Make the almond paste and speculaas dough, put both in the refrigerator and wait a few days before assembling the stuffed speculaas. Make sure to read the notes about eggs I made in the almond paste recipe. Work hygienically. Storage instructions are included with each part of the recipe.

Mandatory items: I challenge you to make this recipe from scratch. Make your own almond paste, mix your own spices. And if you really want to taste a piece of Holland, stick to the recipe

Variations allowed: You can use your creativity for the shape and almond-decoration of the pastry.

Preparation times:
Making the almond paste: 10-20 minutes
Making the speculaas dough: 10-20 minutes
Waiting: 2 hours or a few days (your choice)
Assembling: 30 minutes
Baking: 40 minutes.
Cooling: a few hours.

Equipment required:
rolling pin
food processor (to grind the almonds)
clingfoil
shallow baking pan, 8x10 inch (20x26 cm) or round with a 10 inch (26 cm) diameter

History
Let us start with a little history, about the Netherlands and spices.
Until 1800 cloves, mace and nutmeg are exclusively found on the Maluku Islands, in the East Indian Archipelago. That's why these islands are called “the spice islands”.
To make one's fortune in Europe through the spice trade, one needed a monopoly on the European trade. Since 1500 the Portuguese owned that monopoly.
The Republic of the Seven United Netherlands, too, wanted to get rich from the spice trade, and established the Dutch East India Company around 1600, to join forces. Since 1660 the monopoly on spice trade was firmly in Dutch hands. In the Dutch Golden Age, roughly the 17th century, the republic got rich through this trade, and flourished like never before, economically, artistically and scientifically. In many Dutch cities the heritage of this century is still visible. Sadly, this wealth must be considered in the light of war and repression. The Dutch used much violence and oppressed people to establish and defend their monopoly.
Only after World War II Dutch India became independent from the Netherlands. Until that moment the trade of spices, coffee, rubber, tobacco, opium, sugar, indigo and tea from Dutch India contributed significantly to the Dutch economy.

In light of this historical involvement of the Netherlands in the spice trade, the contents of my kitchen cupboard are not surprising. Anise seeds, cayenne pepper, chili pepper, lemon grass, mace, ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, curry powder, cumin, coriander seeds, cloves, galangal, mustard seed, nutmeg, paprika, allspice, saffron, vanilla, fennel, white pepper, black pepper. And that's without the long list of herbs.

Speculaas spices
When spices had become commonly available in the 17th century, bakers' guilds began to make their secret spice mixtures. A mixture that gloriously survived the ages is “speculaaskruiden” (speculaas spices). Speculaaskruiden contain at least cinnamon, cloves, mace and ginger, and these spices to taste: pepper, cardamom, coriander, anise seeds and nutmeg.
The smell of speculaaskruiden is overwhelming, especially when you take the trouble to mix them yourself. The deliciously warm and woody aroma is a perfect fit for the chilly Dutch winter months.

From the golden age onward, this spice mixture was used to bake a crisp, buttery biscuit: speculaas. For centuries it remained a luxury item, baked only in the holiday season, and often given as a present. Sometimes bakers made the dough three months in advance so that the flavor would permeate the dough.

Ever since the 15th century, the 6th of December has been celebrated as the nameday of St. Nicholas, combined with an exchange of gifts on the evening before. But in the age of the Dutch East India Company St. Nicholas became associated with speculaas. And that is not so strange, as St. Nicholas was the patron saint of sailors as well as many bakers' guilds.

In the course of time many recipes using speculaas spices have been created. Speculaasjes (“speculaas cookies / windmill cookies”) which are shaped using a wooden mold, speculaasbrokken (“speculaas chunks”), kruidnoten (“spiced nuts / miniature spiced cookies”), gevulde speculaas (“speculaas stuffed with almond paste”). And that is not the end of it: speculaas spices can be used in custards, cakes, muffins, bread toppings, cheesecake crusts and so on.

Recipe Speculaas Spices
Speculaas spices can be bought in a store. But it's more fun to make your own mixture, so that you can adjust the flavor. Here is a representative recipe from the extensive Dutch tradition.

Mandatory:
cinnamon         40 to 60 % of the total amount
ground cloves   1 or 2 parts
mace    ½ or 1 part
ginger   ½ or 1 part

Optional:
white pepper    ½ or 1 part
cardamom        ½ or 1 part

coriander         ½ or 1 part
anise    ½ or 1 part
nutmeg 1 or 2 parts

A convenient way to mix the spices is as follows:

Take at least 1 or 2 teaspoons of ground cloves, ½ or 1 teaspoon of mace and ½ or 1 teaspoon of ginger.

Add to taste ½ or 1 teaspoon of white pepper, ½ or 1 teaspoon of cardamom, ½ or 1 teaspoon of coriander, ½ or 1 teaspoon of anise, and 1 or 2 teaspoons of nutmeg.
Measure or weigh the amount of spices you have now, and add an equal amount of cinnamon.

This method yields at least 4 and at most 18 teaspoons of spices, so if you plan to mix just a few spices, use bigger or more spoons to get a reasonable amount.
Take your time to smell the ingredients individually before you decide how much to add. And remember the proportions, that will make adjustments easier next time.
Store the spices airtight, dry and dark, they will not spoil for a long time.

Recipe Almond Paste
As we are going to make stuffed speculaas, we will need almond paste. You can buy it in a store, but homemade almond paste tastes better.

Ingredients:
7/8 cup (210 ml)(125 gm)(4½ oz) raw almonds (or 1-1/3 cups (320 ml)(125 gm) (4½ oz) ground almonds)
5/8 cup (150 ml) (125 grams) (4½ oz) granulated sugar
1 large egg
1 teaspoon (5 ml) (3 gm) lemon zest

Directions:
If the raw almonds still have their brown skins, remove them as follows. Bring water to a boil, add the almonds, cook them for one minute, drain immediately and let cool for a few minutes. Rub them between your fingers to remove the skins.

Grind the almonds for one or two minutes in a food processor, until you see nothing but very small pieces. (Or skip this step if you use ground almonds.)
Add the sugar, and grind for another one or two minutes. It must be very fine after this step.
Add the egg and let the food processor combine it - if it is powerful enough. Otherwise you will have to combine it with your fingers.

Store the almond paste in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Although the flavor gets better as days pass by, it is not wise to store the paste for too long, as it contains a raw egg. For the same reason you should not eat the paste unbaked.

To be safe, you could choose one of these options:
use egg powder and water to replace the egg (follow instructions with the powder)
use 50 ml of an other liquid, like lemon juice (in that case, leave the zest out)
add the egg just before you are going to bake the pastry

The paste can also be kept in the freezer.

Recipe Speculaas Dough

Ingredients:
1¾ cups (250 gm) (9 oz) all purpose (plain) flour
1 teaspoon (5 ml) (5 gm) baking powder
¾ cup (150 grams) (5-1/3 oz) brown sugar, firmly packed
a pinch salt
2 tablespoons (30 ml) (15 gm) (½ oz) speculaas spices
3/4 cup (1½ stick) (175 gm) (6 oz) unsalted butter

Directions:
Put flour, baking powder, sugar, salt and spices in a bowl.
Cut the butter in dices and add.
Knead until smooth.
Feel free to add a little milk if the dough is too dry.
Wrap in clingfoil and put in the refrigerator for two hours.

You can choose to make the dough a few days in advance, just like the almond paste, that will benefit the flavor. Freezing is no problem.

Assembling and baking the Gevulde Speculaas

Ingredients:
speculaas dough
almond paste
whole almonds without skins for decoration
1 large egg
shallow baking pan, 8x10 inch (20x26 cm) or, round with of diameter 10 inch (26 cm)

Directions:
1. Grease the pan.
2. Preheat the oven to moderate 350°F/180°C/gas 4
3. Divide the dough into two portions.
4. Roll out both portions on a lightly floured surface, until they are exactly as big as the baking pan.
5. Put one of the layers in the pan and press it lightly to fill the bottom.
6. Lightly beat the egg with a teaspoon cold water.
7. Smear 1/3 of the egg over the dough in the pan.
8. Roll out the almond paste between two sheets of clingfoil, until it is exactly as big as the pan, and put it on the dough in the pan. (If you chose to make the paste soft, you can smear the paste instead of rolling it.)
9. Press the paste lightly down to fit in the pan, and smear the next 1/3 of the egg over it.
10. Now put the second layer of dough on top of the paste, press it lightly, and make as smooth as possible.
11. Smear the last 1/3 of the egg over the dough.
12. Decorate the pastry with the almonds.

13. Bake for 40 minutes in the preheated oven.
14. Let cool completely in the pan, then cut it in portions as you like.

15. If you wrap the stuffed speculaas in clingfoil, after it has cooled completely, you can store it a few days at room temperature. Freezing is possible, but fresh speculaas tastes better.

Storage & Freezing Instructions/Tips:
Speculaas spices: store them airtight, dry and dark, and they will not spoil for a long time.
Almond paste: keep it in the refrigerator. Some people keep it there for months, but if it contains raw egg, I recommend not more than a few days. Can easily be frozen.
Speculaas dough: can be kept in the refrigerator for days, or in the freezer for months. But remember: fresh tastes better.
Stuffed speculaas: if you let it cool completely, you can wrap it in clingfoil and keep it a few days at room temperature. And again: freezing is possible, but fresh is better.

Additional Information:

Additional Information:
And all these below are links to inspiring pictures. Have fun


Disclaimer:
The Daring Kitchen and its members in no way suggest we are medical professionals and therefore are NOT responsible for any error in reporting of “alternate baking/cooking”. If you have issues with digesting gluten, then it is YOUR responsibility to research the ingredient before using it. If you have allergies, it is YOUR responsibility to make sure any ingredient in a recipe will not adversely affect you. If you are lactose intolerant, it is YOUR responsibility to make sure any ingredient in a recipe will not adversely affect you. If you are vegetarian or vegan, it is YOUR responsibility to make sure any ingredient in a recipe will not adversely affect you. The responsibility is YOURS regardless of what health issue you’re dealing with. Please consult your physician with any questions before using an ingredient you are not familiar with. Thank you!

__________________
Francijn Brouwer
http://kokenindebrouwerij.blogspot.com

Disclaimer:
The Daring Kitchen and its members in no way suggest we are medical professionals and therefore are NOT responsible for any error in reporting of “alternate baking/cooking”. If you have issues with digesting gluten, then it is YOUR responsibility to research the ingredient before using it. If you have allergies, it is YOUR responsibility to make sure any ingredient in a recipe will not adversely affect you. If you are lactose intolerant, it is YOUR responsibility to make sure any ingredient in a recipe will not adversely affect you. If you are vegetarian or vegan, it is YOUR responsibility to make sure any ingredient in a recipe will not adversely affect you. The responsibility is YOURS regardless of what health issue you’re dealing with. Please consult your physician with any questions before using an ingredient you are not familiar with. Thank you!

__________________
Francijn Brouwer
http://kokenindebrouwerij.blogspot.com


Italian version

GEVULDE SPECULAAS

Questo dolce è fatto utilizzando lo stesso impasto che viene utilizzato in Olanda per fare biscotti speziati. Qui la differenza è data dal ripieno di pasta di mandorle. Può essere servito come torta o tagliato a pezzetti per farne dei deliziosi dolcetti di forma quadrata, ad esempio, comunque è particolare per la sua consistenza croccante, come quella dei biscotti. La mia decorazione è molto semplice, perché ho sbagliato nel comprare le mandorle, ne ho prese solo per la pasta di mandorle e ho dimenticato che mi sarebbero servite anche per la decorazione, ma vi metto alcune foto di biscottini e torte realizzate da altri concorrenti (v. in basso) per darvi un'idea di quante versioni carine si possano fare.

Ingredienti:
impasto per speculaas 
pasta di mandorle
mandorle intere spellate per la decorazione
1 uovo grande
una teglia bassa per torte  (rettangolare 20 x 26 cm o rotonda di 26 cm di diametro)


Per la pasta di mandorle
125 g di  mandorle spellate
125 g di zucchero
1 uovo grande
1 cucchiaino di scorza grattugiata di limone

Tritare le mandorle con lo zucchero senza far scaldare troppo l'impasto. Incorporare l’uovo e la buccia grattugiata di limone. Foderare con della pellicola o mettere in un sacchetto per surgelati e lasciar riposare in frigo per circa 2 ore o anche per una notte.

Mix di spezie
Fare un mix con 1 o 2 cucchiaini di chiodi di garofano in polvere (io uno) , 1/2 o 1 cucchiaino di macis e 1/2 o 1 cucchiaino di zenzero in polvere (io uno) .Aggiungere se vi piace 1/2 o 1 cucchiaino di cardamomo, anice, coriandolo, pepe bianco. Pesare  e aggiungere pari quantità  di cannella o fino al 60%.


Per l'impasto
250 g di farina
15 g di mix di spezie
150 g di zucchero di canna
1 cucchiaio di lievito per dolci
un pizzico di sale
175 g di burro morbido
2 cucchiai di latte (facoltativi - io li ho usati)

In una ciotola mischiare la farina setacciata, lo zucchero, il lievito, il sale e le spezie. Aggiungere poi il burro a tocchetti e impastare fino a formare una palla. Se l’impasto risulta troppo secco aggiungere uno  goccio di latte. Avvolgere nella pellicola e mettere in frigo. Lasciar riposare per almeno 2 ore (meglio se per una notte intera).

Assemblaggio:

pasta di mandorle
impasto
uovo sbattuto con due cucchiaini di acqua fredda
mandorle intere spellate per la decorazione

Foderare una tortiera con della carta oleata. Preriscaldare il forno a 180°C.
Divedere l’impasto speziato in due parti, una leggermente più grande dell'altra. Prendere il pezzo più  grande, Stenderlo con il mattarello fino a formare un disco per foderare la teglia fino al bordo.  Spennellare la superficie con un terzo dell’uovo sbattuto. Distribuire poi il composto di pasta di mandorle e livellarlo. Spennellare di nuovo con un altro terzo di uovo sbattuto.
Stendere l’altra metà di impasto formando  un altro disco sempre della stessa dimenzione della teglia. Poggiare sopra alla pasta di mandorle e far aderire con delicatezza. Spennellare con l’uovo rimasto e decorare la torta con  le mandorle. Infornare per circa 40 minuti (anche meno - dipende dal vostro forno). Lasciare stiepidide e sformare su una gratella per far raffreddare.

Versions I  particularly liked:

work in progress

saranno inserite a breve

come back again to discover them













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